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Sewing Your WEdding Gown from Scratch
Creating a Wedding Gown is not for the faint of heart
I have not sewn a gown from scratch in many years. There are just so many options out there for buying gowns that it's rare that I get asked to scratch sew one. Plus, it can be a very expensive situation when you hire a sewing professional to create a custom made gown and most brides are on strict budgets these days. so if a bride can't find what they want, they often turn to sewing it themselves or asking a mom or talented friend to attempt it. So, I do get many letters from brides and Moms who are attempting the project and have questions as to the proper process.
Our Visitors' Questions
What are the Best Fastener Types?
March 2011
Hi Leanna,
I am making my daughter's wedding gown and have concerns about the type of fastener to use. The style is very similar to the one attached worn to the 2011 SAG awards although it will be a one strap dress rather than a continuation of the bodice). She is determined to have the covered buttons down the back, but I would rather not have the line of the dress broken by a zipper underneath the buttons. I am thinking of two alternatives; using a side zipper and the buttons down the back or using the buttons alone- just not sure how much support that would provide. I would appreciate any suggestions you may have.
thank you! sharon
Hi Sharon,
Fasteners do not provide support of any kind. You get that from boning. The fasteners you choose is done for purely esthetic reasons. A zipper would make a more secure closure, but buttons look really great.
~Lea
Hi Leanna,
I am making my daughter's wedding gown and have concerns about the type of fastener to use. The style is very similar to the one attached worn to the 2011 SAG awards although it will be a one strap dress rather than a continuation of the bodice). She is determined to have the covered buttons down the back, but I would rather not have the line of the dress broken by a zipper underneath the buttons. I am thinking of two alternatives; using a side zipper and the buttons down the back or using the buttons alone- just not sure how much support that would provide. I would appreciate any suggestions you may have.
thank you! sharon
Hi Sharon,
Fasteners do not provide support of any kind. You get that from boning. The fasteners you choose is done for purely esthetic reasons. A zipper would make a more secure closure, but buttons look really great.
~Lea
Sew Tulle into zipper?
October 2010
Hi Leanna
Wondering if you can please help – I am making a wedding dress with a multi-layered, very gathered tulle skirt over a heavy satin underskirt. I don’t know how to finish the tulle at the back. My bride does not want a lace up style back and is insisting on a zip I am very experienced with zippers, but I am confused about sewing the tulle into the zipper along with the underskirt.
I have read a lot of conflicting methods on the net. Some say to leave a slit opening in the tulle and just sew the zipper into the underskirt. This would be okay for a child, but I don’t think it is appropriate for a bespoke wedding gown. If I do sew the tulle into the zip, I am concerned the skirt will pull in where the layers are sewn into the zipper and then flare out below it. (I am assuming the tulle layers would not besewn into the center back seam of the underskirt but would swing free separately.) I also don’t know how to finish the join at the bottom where the zipper would end and the center back seam would start.
Any advice would be most appreciated.
Clare, Oz
Hi Clare,
I would not sew the tulle into the zipper. I've seen it done that way a few times and I have not liked it. I think it looks much better to let the tulle fall gracefully of its own accord over the zipper area unstitched. Once you see it, I think you will like it.
~Lea
Gapping Neckline
April 2010
Hello Leanna,
My daughter is getting married in June and I agreed to make the bridesmaid dresses. I made the identical dress for my oldest daughter's bridesmaids four years ago with no problem.
However, I am having difficulty with the bodice fitting for a couple of the girls in this wedding party. Several of the girls are quite busty but small in the ribs. The dress is strapless with an empire waist, A-line skirt. The darts for the bodice run underneath the breast from the skirt seam. I am having issue with gapping at the top even though the dress fits snuggly on the sides and back. There is still a gap at the center top of the bodice in front. In other words, the person wearing the dress looks right down into their cleavage. Boning is sewn in at sides.
Is this because the bodice is the wrong cup size. Do you have any ways I could fix this problem?
Would appreciate any advice you can give.
Thanks, Sheri
Hi Sheri,
What I normally do for this situation is take in the princess seam at the neckline. By what you have said, your bodice has darts, not princess seams. You could try to extend the darts into princess seams so you can take the gaping fabric out of the neckline.
That's about all I can suggest without seeing the dresses.
~Lea
Hello Leanna,
My daughter is getting married in June and I agreed to make the bridesmaid dresses. I made the identical dress for my oldest daughter's bridesmaids four years ago with no problem.
However, I am having difficulty with the bodice fitting for a couple of the girls in this wedding party. Several of the girls are quite busty but small in the ribs. The dress is strapless with an empire waist, A-line skirt. The darts for the bodice run underneath the breast from the skirt seam. I am having issue with gapping at the top even though the dress fits snuggly on the sides and back. There is still a gap at the center top of the bodice in front. In other words, the person wearing the dress looks right down into their cleavage. Boning is sewn in at sides.
Is this because the bodice is the wrong cup size. Do you have any ways I could fix this problem?
Would appreciate any advice you can give.
Thanks, Sheri
Hi Sheri,
What I normally do for this situation is take in the princess seam at the neckline. By what you have said, your bodice has darts, not princess seams. You could try to extend the darts into princess seams so you can take the gaping fabric out of the neckline.
That's about all I can suggest without seeing the dresses.
~Lea
Bustier shows under the dress
January 2007
I am interested in purchasing a dress but at the top portion of the dress to the top of my hips, there is a bustier. I don’t like how the bustier shows under the dress where is ends. Is it possible to add a lining or add to the bustier so it looks smoother?Thanks, Anne
Most brides also buy a slip that comes above the waist and ends up making a bustier look smoother, but you can add a lining to just about anything. You'll need to ask the alteration lady at your store what this will cost.~Lea
I am interested in purchasing a dress but at the top portion of the dress to the top of my hips, there is a bustier. I don’t like how the bustier shows under the dress where is ends. Is it possible to add a lining or add to the bustier so it looks smoother?Thanks, Anne
Most brides also buy a slip that comes above the waist and ends up making a bustier look smoother, but you can add a lining to just about anything. You'll need to ask the alteration lady at your store what this will cost.~Lea
Dry cleaned right now?
October 2005
Hello,
I just purchased a wedding dress that was once used (no dirt or stains on the dress just a little on the hemline which I am planning on taking up a little). My wedding is not for 2 years. I wanted to know if you think I should get the dress dry cleaned right now or should I wait until all alterations are done closer to the wedding and then get it cleaned. So far it is in pristine condition, and I have it hanging inside two long dress covers. I don’t want to get it cleaned now and then it gets dirty when I do alterations and fittings but I don’t want to ruin the dress-if it needs to be cleaned right away. Do you think that storing the dress inside 2 dress covers is okay for now or should it get it professionally cleaned now and risk it getting a bit dirty before my wedding?-I’m not sure if the seamstress is responsible for keeping the dress cleaned.
Thanks, Margarita.
This is a hard question. The usual advice is to clean a gown as soon after the wedding as possible. Even if you don't see stains they could develop later and discolor the fabric. I'm told the biggest culprit is sugar. White sugar from treats at the reception doesn't usually show as a stain but it can yellow the fabric in time.
Since your gown was used it might be a good idea to clean it now, but if it has been some time since the wedding it was used in and it is still in pristine condition, I don't see that you have to.
Most sewing professionals are going to be very careful to not dirty the gowns they are working on, but small spots can happen. Brides worry about any tiny spot. They want their gown to be perfect. If I am working on a gown that is noticeably dirty when it first gets to me, I have the bride wait to clean it. Not because I think I will get it dirty, but because it saves her from paying me an extra $60 to stream the gown when I'm finished with the alterations.
It all boils down to - - - Do you want to pay the high price a dry cleaners will charge to have the gown cleaned? If it's in your budget and will make you feel better, do it. Otherwise, don't go looking for spots. Your guests won't see them so why should you add to your stress about it.
~Lea
Portrait collar bodice is too tight
December 2009
Hi,
I hope you can help. I am making my wedding dress and got to the fitting prior to installing the zipper. The problem is that there is plenty of room at the neckline, and the waist fits well, but the stress point is across the shoulder blades, just above where the corset sits. It is a ¾ sleeve dress with a portrait collar and a wrap front. Is there a way to put a panel in at the zipper to give me about ½ to 1” more? My wedding is this coming Saturday, the 12th.
Thanks, Lynn
Hi Lynn,
This area needs to be snug to support the portrait collar. If you add more the collar might flop in a funny way. It's hard to tell without seeing you in the dress.
~Lea
Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. It does fit well at the collar, bust, etc. and the waist. It’s just too tight at the ribcage on the back bodice, and I’m thin, so it doesn’t make any sense. I’ve thought about taking the back off and re-cutting it and re-installing it, but thought there might be a way to add something at the zipper to give it a little more to work with. I only need ½ an inch or so, but the fabric unravels pretty easily. I’m an experienced sewer, but this is perplexing me to no end.
Lynn
Well, you can put a piece in the zipper or the side seam, but it won't look very good. If you have the time and fabric to recut the back panels, it will look much better.
Are you sure it's the dress and not the corset that is feeling tight? Try leaving the top few hooks on the corset undone or on a looser eye.
~Lea
No, it’s the dress. I can’t move my arms very far forward or up. Thanks very much for your help.
Lynn
I'm sad to tell you that this is typical for a portrait collar design. They look really great as long as you keep your arms down. This design definitely makes hugging loved ones at your reception very difficult. I advise brides to hug low, aiming for the waist, and let the other person raise their arms and hug your neck.
~Lea
Adding rouching to a pattern
September 2009
I am looking for a gown pattern that is fitted and ruched from bodice to low thighs then flares into a "mermaid" bottom. I can't find a pattern like this in any of the main pattern books. I see lots of these dresses in bride magazines now. Do you know where I might find a pattern or could you tell me how to do the ruching? I have patterns that are the same shape of the dress I want to make but without the ruching. Also, the dress will be in silk taffeta.
Thanks,Jennifer
I really enjoyed reading all of the questions and answers on your website.
Hi Jennifer,
I have not looked through any pattern company's books lately so I do not know of anything off the top of my head. If you know how to add length to a pattern, then you can figure out how to add ruching to a pattern - it's the same method. You just add as much length as you want the gathers to be in fullness and do it several places down the length of the pattern piece so the seams stay in the body curves.
~Lea
I am looking for a gown pattern that is fitted and ruched from bodice to low thighs then flares into a "mermaid" bottom. I can't find a pattern like this in any of the main pattern books. I see lots of these dresses in bride magazines now. Do you know where I might find a pattern or could you tell me how to do the ruching? I have patterns that are the same shape of the dress I want to make but without the ruching. Also, the dress will be in silk taffeta.
Thanks,Jennifer
I really enjoyed reading all of the questions and answers on your website.
Hi Jennifer,
I have not looked through any pattern company's books lately so I do not know of anything off the top of my head. If you know how to add length to a pattern, then you can figure out how to add ruching to a pattern - it's the same method. You just add as much length as you want the gathers to be in fullness and do it several places down the length of the pattern piece so the seams stay in the body curves.
~Lea
Small "dent" in the front
June 2005
I am having a dress altered that I bought off the rack. I noticed a very small "dent" in the front about the size of a small bead. When I mentioned to the seamstress, she looked at me as if I was crazy. Am I just obsessing over something that no one will notice? Could the dent come out another way?
Is the gown made of satin? Quite often satin fibers get slightly off and it can look like a dent because the way the light hits the fibers looks like a shadow of a dent. Maybe when it was being tried on a lady pulled on it in that spot and the fibers got out of line. It's very easy to do. Or, since it is the size of a bead, maybe a bead was sewn there and fell off.
No one at your wedding will notice it and even pointing it out to your alteration lady might not get her to see it. You do because you are looking at the gown differently and very close up. Every tiny imperfection is going to scream at you. When the gown is on the hanger in the dressing room, take a step back and look at it. I will be surprised if you can still see it. But if you can, take a good, close look at it and you'll be able to see which way the fibres have been pushed. All you have to do is use a fine pin to push them back into line. If you decide it was where a bead was sewn and fell off, you should have a little bag of extra beads that came with the gown that you can use to sew one back into place.
It says my dress is organza? Thanks for the advice! Do you think that steaming or pressing it may help?
Organza, yes? humm. Are you sure it's not a spot? It's often hard to tell with white. But if it is a wrinkle or dent, I don't see why it wouldn't come out with steaming. And it could be the fibres are out of line too. It's just more common for satin.
~Lea
I am having a dress altered that I bought off the rack. I noticed a very small "dent" in the front about the size of a small bead. When I mentioned to the seamstress, she looked at me as if I was crazy. Am I just obsessing over something that no one will notice? Could the dent come out another way?
Is the gown made of satin? Quite often satin fibers get slightly off and it can look like a dent because the way the light hits the fibers looks like a shadow of a dent. Maybe when it was being tried on a lady pulled on it in that spot and the fibers got out of line. It's very easy to do. Or, since it is the size of a bead, maybe a bead was sewn there and fell off.
No one at your wedding will notice it and even pointing it out to your alteration lady might not get her to see it. You do because you are looking at the gown differently and very close up. Every tiny imperfection is going to scream at you. When the gown is on the hanger in the dressing room, take a step back and look at it. I will be surprised if you can still see it. But if you can, take a good, close look at it and you'll be able to see which way the fibres have been pushed. All you have to do is use a fine pin to push them back into line. If you decide it was where a bead was sewn and fell off, you should have a little bag of extra beads that came with the gown that you can use to sew one back into place.
It says my dress is organza? Thanks for the advice! Do you think that steaming or pressing it may help?
Organza, yes? humm. Are you sure it's not a spot? It's often hard to tell with white. But if it is a wrinkle or dent, I don't see why it wouldn't come out with steaming. And it could be the fibres are out of line too. It's just more common for satin.
~Lea
Lace Cording Missing
January 2005
Hello,
I just purchased a dress made by forever yours bridal. It has Alencon lace on the dress. The cording around some of the lace was cut or has fallen off. I called the dress maker they said the Alencon lace is on a bolt like fabric so when it is cut the cording is not always intact. I am really a detailed person and would like the cording around all of the flowers. Is their anyway for a seamstress to sew the cording back on to the dress if I find the cording? I love the dress this is the only problem with it. There are probably on about 5-6 areas that would need the new cording. Please e-mail me back and let me know.
Thanks so Much,
Sherri
Yes, they told you correctly. When this type of lace is cut the stitching on the edges is often severed and does ravel a bit. Most manufactures do not secure these loose ends. What you are wanting can certainly be done. The loose ends can be hand secured and I would think you could use crochet cotton, or embroidery floss for the places where the cording is missing. I would charge $30 and hour for such hand sewing work. Depending on how much needs to be stitched it could get pricey, but may be well worth it for what you are wanting. You can do this yourself. It's not hard, just tedious and takes time and patience.
~Lea
